Taking on Tokyo: Local Insider Tips

After living in Tokyo for 6 years Country Specialist Tamatha Frederick offers us her expert advice

By Audley Travel

August 28^th, 2018

The metropolis of Tokyo is staggering—with all of its 9 million inhabitants. I was one of them until recently, and spent over 6 years working as a university teacher and freelance writer.

Part of my job working for Metropolis Japan, an English magazine, was to scout out restaurants and off-the-beaten-track locales. I never ran out of ideas; the city has endless possibilities for tourists and residents alike. Then again, it helps to know where to branch out to when only a handful of places are advertised in the guidebooks. Here’s a few tips to make the most of your time out of Tokyo, a diverse capital that runs on its own adrenaline and has something for everyone.

Read Tamatha's Country Specialist profile

The Great Buddha (Daibutsu) of Kamakura (you can go inside for a few 100 yen!)

The tokyo area has it all

Maybe you’re limited on time. Or maybe a Japan Rail Pass is a bit out of your price range. So why not simply stay in the Tokyo area and soak up all it has to offer? Most travelers equate the city with metropolitan pursuits, unaware that within a close proximity are fantastic beaches, superb hiking trails, and even a Kyoto-like destination.

Starting with beaches, it’s easy to take a day trip to several local haunts. Enoshima, with its surf crowd and tourist-friendly facilities, is an easy favorite. But for something slightly off the beaten track, I recommend Onjuku in Chiba prefecture. Its pristine white beaches only see the majority of Japanese beach goers during the “official beach season” of late July and August. If you want a beach to yourself no matter the time, head to one of the Izu islands in the Tokyo Bay. Ferries jet you out to these islands and you’ll find fantastic seafood, deserted stretches of land, and friendly locals.

Habushiura Beach on Niijima Island (one of the Izu islands) is popular for surfing

When it comes to hiking, Mt. Takao is the go-to due to its relatively easy commute from downtown Tokyo. (It’s also the most climbed mountain in the world). A great alternative, however, is Mt. Mitake which offers unspoiled nature and beautiful shrines to duck into. Or again, venture out to Chiba for Nokogiriyama. This “saw-toothed” mountain has one of the largest Buddhas in the world and awards travelers with views of the ocean and Mt. Fuji on clear days. Kamakura is Japan’s old capital and is likened to Kyoto for its many temples and shrines. It also has the giant, bronze Daibutsu of Kotokuin. Weighing close to 850 tons and at over 11 meters tall this is Japan's second largest Buddha statue and is Kamakura's most famous sight. One way to get away from the tourist areas is to walk the Daibutsu Trail, which winds through the lovely forest and introduces you to several hidden temples (including one for money!)

Tokyo knows coffee

You’ll need some caffeine to power you through all your side trips from Tokyo. The country as a whole is a nation of tea drinkers and you can definitely find a lovely cup of matcha within a Japanese garden like Happo-en or Rikugien. But some us need a pick-me-up with a stronger injection of caffeine, especially if we are combating jet lag. Thankfully, Tokyo has embraced the coffee culture and is setting the scene with their delicious “third wave” coffee shops. One of my absolute favorite is Turret, located within walking distance of the Tsukiji Fish Market (note that the location of this market is due to change come October, 2018). The name Turret actually refers to the carts you normally see zooming around the fish market. Turret is tiny but serves up excellent selections, like a sea salt caramel latte, and also wows with their monthly special. Another shop I love to frequent is a bit more old school. Café de l’ambre is located off the busy shopping street in Ginza. It’s a coffee only café, with an extensive menu of about 30 single origin varieties. The baristas prepare their coffee in the old-fashioned way, which goes along well with their decor. Best of all, the shop is owned by centenarian, Sekiguchi Ichiro, who still roasts the beans every day, it’s hard not to fall in love with the atmosphere and gourmet martini glass of coffee in front of you.

Little Nap Café near Yoyogi Park makes for a great break from Harajuku’s craziness

Make Time for Temples

You can get a bit “templed out” in your travels around Japan. Even Tokyo has its abundance of temples and shrines sandwiched between high-rise buildings and neon lights. And while some are on the inevitable bucket list, such as Meiji Jingu Shrine, I recommend checking out a few with quirky flair. One of these is Tamagawa Daishi Temple, also known as “Gyokushin Mitsuin,” built in 1925. Beneath the temple lies a hidden tunnel that represents the intestines of Dainichi Nyorai, the embodiment of the Buddhist concept of emptiness. You can access this tunnel for a small fee if you so dare. It’s completely pitch dark and you find your way by feeling along a wall, eventually reaching beautiful incense-filled chambers. Gotokuji is another interesting choice to explore. This one is located is quiet Sentagaya, a lovely area for quaint cafes. Gotokuji is adored for its hundreds of maneki neko statues, small cat statues you usually see in storefronts beckoning customers in with their moving paw. The statues represent good luck and well-wishers have left an increasing number of them over the years. The cat section tucked away in one corner of the temple and you’re welcome to purchase your own kitty to add to the growing collection.

Gotokuji Temple and it's corner of good luck kitties

Gotokuji Temple features the iconic good luck cats of Japan

Relax in a hot spring

The culture of onsen (natural hot springs) is an integral part of the Japanese society. Although it can take some getting used to—you bathe naked with the same gender—it’s a rewarding experience that shouldn’t be missed while visiting the country. Now while most people opt for the onsen located in popular destinations including Nikko, Hakone, and the Japanese Alps, you can still find your own slice of relaxation within Tokyo’s limits.

One of the coolest options is Ooedo Onsen on the manmade island of Odaiba. This Edo-era style onsen complex is a bit on the pricey side but worth the multitude of baths, as well as the communal area. You can join your friends or family members in traditional yukata and take advantage of the festival atmosphere, the drinks, and the games on hand. In another part of town close to Tokyo Dome, LaQua Spa is a fantastic high-end option. The facility uses natural hot spring water that bubbles up from 1,700 meters underground and carries with it highly restorative properties, beneficial for your joints and skin. While you’re indulging, opt for a massage or facial as well. Probably the most conveniently located onsen in the city is Thermae-yu, smack right in the middle of Shinjuku. It’s only a short walk from the very famous and touristy Golden Gai but in its own quiet haven. The water here is shipped in daily from Izu, specifically known for its beautifying properties. Each floor has its own specific aroma, good for the pores. Note that all three of the above onsen do not allow people with tattoos inside. For those with tattoos, I recommend asking your hotel for the nearest sento, a smaller version of an onsen but usually less strict when it comes to tattoos.